Our experienced, outback-camping grandsons, Matthew and Amos, refer to
their nemesis – the grey no-mans. They are the travellers who have always left
their campsite before they get up – and when they arrive at their destination the
next night the blessed grey no-mans have the best position and are already enjoying
afternoon drinks and nibblies. We would not presume to number amongst their
ranks. We are old and grey enough. However, compared to real grey no-mans we
might better be described as grey rookies.
Having turned south our original plan was to motor from Coral Bay to
Geraldton. Real grey no-mans, who are retired, might take two weeks to do that
distance, but as work beckons in a few days we are short of time. After some consideration
we decide to break the 700kms into two sections, so we search for somewhere to
stay overnight. No towns. A couple of roadhouses – no thanks. And then we
discover Gladstone Bay, a campground on a large rural station only 6 kms off
the highway.
This is freedom. No militant caravan park aficionado telling you what numbered
site to occupy – this is find your own available and almost level spot (which was
actually challenging) and set up. No power, no water, no utilities block, but
still a crowd of fifty or so vans including one family travelling with a pet
goose!?!
Somehow the rookies survive and thrive. Our trusty A-van, Morrie,
switches to the gas fridge and gas hot water. All our lights are 12 volt and
run off the battery. Morrie stores 120 litres of water and the pump works off
12 volt as well. A $75 shower tent is erected with the precision of a failed
apprentice – actually it went up fine - it was just that Richard somehow found
himself on the inside of the erected tent rather than being on the outside. And
don’t ask about getting it down, that was really challenging. Morrie’s external
hot shower (well more like a warm hose) cleaned us up and we settled down to
bacon and eggs, baked beans and fried bread for dinner, with two fruits and
cream for dessert.
Off grid, almost off the beaten track and the most amazingly beautiful
starry night light show.
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